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New Food Review: BottleTaps


Photo by Lon H. yelp.com

A pub with attitude misses the point. Hence, while the craft-brewery boom makes great pints increasingly accessible, humble beer has drifted toward the arcane, risking “fine wine” exclusivity. Enter BottleTaps, an utterly casual, 30-tap-strong alehouse with good food and openhearted service. Our visits, which took place two days after the spot opened and two months later, revealed a ferment-friendly food menu; playful desserts; and an ever-evolving selection of draft beer, cider, and kombucha. The greaseless Cubano sandwich—served with a fresh, hand-torn lettuce salad, garlicky house pickles of asparagus and root vegetables, and a smorgasbord of meat and cheeses—proved that hearty needn’t be heavy. Our only dud was the Wagyu beef slider, an overcooked and mealy patty; the house-cured pastrami slider was much better. BottleTaps’ warm but spacious, brick-accented dining room belies its spanking-new strip mall locale. And while the local owners will gladly tutor you on the nuances of brewing, they’re equally willing to leave you in blissful ignorance with a frothy thirst quencher. 3020 Bernal Ave., Ste. 160, (925) 399-8322, . Lunch and dinner daily. $$

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